The ferret
Origins
The ferret is not a rodent but a mustelid. According to several historical documents, it seems that the first ferrets were domesticated in ancient Egypt around 1300 BC. Their function was to eliminate rodents such as rats and mice, although they were later replaced by cats, which tolerated heat better.
Description
Its scientific name – Mustela putorius furo – is almost intimidating, but in reality it means… stinking thief. In the wild, these animals like to hide their prey in their dens, a habit they carry over into their homes. They steal anything they find interesting and hide it in a secret place. So be careful with house keys, erasers and markers, coins and bills. There are two varieties of domestic ferrets that can be distinguished by the colour of their fur. One is albino with pink eyes and the other is buff-coloured with a black tip to the muzzle, feet and tail.
Ideal Master
Here are ten questions that every future owner should ask themselves before buying a ferret. If the answer is always "yes", there is no doubt: we will be able to offer him a very beautiful and comfortable life. On the other hand, if there are a few "no", it is better to think about it a little more.
- Do you have at least one hour a day to feed him, clean his cage, cuddle him and play with him?
- If left alone at home, the ferret suffers from loneliness. Can we consider buying a "little brother" (or another animal) to keep him company?
- Is there a quiet room in which to put his cage?
- Are you willing to let him roam around the house for a while each day?
- Is there a safe room or can one be set up where he won't get into a difficult situation and cause damage?
- Can you avoid getting upset if you find your poop all over the house?
- During the holidays, can we take it where we are going or find a suitable accommodation solution?
- If there is already a pet at home, will both be taken care of to help them get along?
- Does the whole family like the idea of having a ferret?
- Are we sure that no family member is allergic to hair?
Male or female?
Sex is not very important because, in terms of character and behavior, males and females are absolutely identical. The only difference is the size: the male is larger (he can weigh twice as much as the female) and the shape of the snout (wider in the male, and more pointed in the female). He is therefore likely to cause fewer problems when left free in the house, because he is more difficult to "lose". Be aware that the operation of a female costs more than that of a male. Each ferret has its own personality: some are more affectionate and expansive, others are more reserved and independent. His temperament aside, if you can devote enough time to play with him and cuddle him, he generally does not need a "captive companion". Otherwise, it may be a good idea to get two: they would not feel lonely when the owner is not at home and it would be very entertaining to watch them while they play. It is advised to those who have never owned ferrets that they would be better off getting just one at first, to have time to practice and limit training problems, and then possibly adopt another one after six months.
Behavior
The ferret is very playful and gets used to human contact very easily. The ideal age to acquire it is two months. It must be monitored at the beginning of its life, because it is very exploratory and can sneak everywhere. It is easily the victim of electrical wires or other dangers in the house. You have to be careful with sudden movements, because it sometimes retains its hunting instinct which can lead it to bite. In addition, its behavior with young children is sometimes unpredictable.
Food
The ferret is a "pure" carnivore, because its body needs food of animal origin, especially because it is rich in protein. On the other hand, this animal is unable to use the proteins contained in plants efficiently. Another characteristic: it "burns" the food it consumes so quickly that it must eat little and often. Your companion's basic diet will therefore consist of special kibble for ferrets or an industrial preparation for cats of excellent quality.
Hide and seek with food
Watch your pet closely when you give him a perishable food, to see if he eats it immediately or if he runs to hide it. The ferret generally loses the habit of hiding his food after a few years.
Treats: in small quantities and exceptionally
But nothing prevents you from occasionally varying his diet and "spoiling" him by offering him a few treats. Among the authorized treats are foods of both animal origin (cooked meat without bones, hard-boiled eggs, cheese) and vegetable origin, which should however always be offered exceptionally and in small quantities (no more than one or two teaspoons in total per day).
Foods not recommended for ferrets
- Dog food of any type: These foods do not meet the ferret's nutritional needs and, over time, cause nutritional deficiencies and health problems.
- Poor quality canned or kibble cat food: These foods do not meet the ferret's nutritional needs and, over time, cause nutritional deficiencies and health problems.
- Bones, such as chicken and rabbit bones: sharp fragments can cause serious injuries to the ferret's digestive system and death to the animal.
- Milk and dairy products (ice cream, creams, etc.): lactose is not digested properly and sometimes causes diarrhea.
- Raw meat: it can be contaminated with bacteria and cause intestinal infections.
- Raw eggs: They contain a substance called avidin, which destroys an important vitamin: biotin.
- Fish: Fish proteins are not assimilated properly and are also not suitable for ferrets. Fish can even make them vomit.
- Foods high in fiber: Fiber is not digested and is responsible for intestinal disorders.
- Chocolate and coffee: they contain substances that are harmful to ferrets.
- Foods high in salt: They can cause health problems.
- Alcoholic drinks: toxic for ferrets! (or any other animal).
- Fruits and vegetables: His digestive system is unable to digest fiber and ingesting fruits or vegetables could cause serious intestinal problems.
And yet, the ferret can love them. It is therefore necessary to keep any fruit or vegetable out of its reach. There is a list of fruits that are revealed toxic for ferrets and which should never be given to them, even in very small quantities:
- grapes and raisins;
- garlic, onion and shallots;
- the lawyer;
- nuts;
- almonds;
- peanuts.
Health
In general, a ferret hardly gets sick: if it lives in a clean and spacious cage, if it has the opportunity to run, move and play freely every day, if it eats nutritious and suitable food, it will remain healthy until its "old age". It will then become calmer and sleep more, but in return it will be softer and more tender.
An animal adapted to apartment life
The ferret is an animal perfectly adapted to apartment life, silent, easy to raise, intelligent, affectionate and very lively. This animal really has the gift of entertaining and one can spend hours watching it without getting bored, especially if it has the opportunity to play and interact with another ferret.
How to choose your ferret
Adopting a ferret is a responsible act. Like any animal, a ferret should never be bought on impulse or to have something original to show off to your friends, but only after careful consideration. It is not a small stuffed animal that you can put aside when you have had enough, but a living and sensitive creature that has a daily need for attention and affection.
Also, be aware that ferrets require very high-quality industrial food, annual examinations and vaccinations, as well as sterilization for subjects not intended for reproduction. Not to mention visits to the veterinarian and care to be provided in case of illness. A ferret can live 8 to 10 years, or even more. Do you feel ready to take care of it properly during all this time?
The main criteria for choosing a ferret
The main criteria for choosing a ferret are not only appearance, color, sex and age, but also character and physical condition. Their thick skin has nothing to fear, unlike ours. Taking our hands for a playmate, they reserve the same fate for them and this attitude should not be considered a sign of aggression. Young subjects are used to playing with each other quite lively, and biting is part of the game. Over time, the little ferret will learn to play with you without inflicting any pain on you, exactly as in the case of a puppy or a kitten.
In case you are given a ferret that its previous owner can no longer keep for whatever reason, try to gather as much information about it as possible:
- exact age;
- previous vaccinations (with date of boosters);
- any current or past illnesses, as well as current treatments;
- eating habits;
- possible behavioral disorders;
- if it is a female: has she been sterilized or has she already given birth;
- request the corresponding health documents.
Transporting the ferret home
To bring home your newly purchased ferret, equip yourself with a plastic or metal cat travel cage. At first, the ferret (especially a young one) will be rather disoriented: wait a moment before allowing it to roam freely around the house and place it immediately in its cage. Give it some time to acclimatize, picking it up often to play and cuddle it, and only release it in a very limited space. Once it has become accustomed to you, allow it to explore its new environment (which you will have made sure to make "ferret-proof").
Ferret habitat
The ferret cage
Before adopting a ferret, you must have already prepared its cage, an essential accessory unless you plan to put an entire room at its exclusive disposal. Because although the ferret needs to spend a few hours of freedom in your company, it is better for its safety to keep it locked up when it sleeps or when you cannot supervise it.
The best solution is a cage with metal bars: sturdy and easy to clean, it also guarantees good ventilation. Some models consist of two or more levels connected by ramps or tubes, which increase the space available to the ferret and, above all, allow it to have a lot of fun going up and down from one level to another.
The bars should be close enough together to prevent the animal from escaping, and you should check that there are no sharp objects or edges that could cause injuries. Also, make sure that the closing system is ferret-proof, to avoid finding it wandering freely around the house. Check that the door is wide enough to allow the litter box to pass through without any problem.
The wire floor is not suitable for ferrets' paws, which could injure themselves. Therefore, cover it with rags (old sweaters, towels) or even pieces of linoleum. In the case of a solid floor, do not use wood shavings, sawdust or newspaper strips as a filling: they are scattered all over the cage and outside, and you would have to constantly pick them up.
Cage layout
Inside, provide a small shelter to sleep in: a wicker nest, a cardboard box (easy to replace) or a plastic tube with pieces of fabric as a bed. If the animal tends to chew on these (as young individuals generally do), do not leave them at its disposal, as they could cause an intestinal blockage. Finally, make sure that there is always clean water and food in the cage.
Ferret Litter
The litter box
Another essential accessory is the litter box. Since ferrets instinctively tend to go to the bathroom in a corner, they quickly learn to use the litter box, just like cats, although they don't cover their droppings. You can choose between regular cat litter boxes or any plastic container with low sides.
The edge of the litter box should be high enough so that, since ferrets are used to relieving themselves in a corner against the wall, the droppings cannot fall out. However, the animal (especially a young individual) must have easy access to it, so it is sometimes advisable to lower one of the sides.
When the ferret is let loose in the house, it is advisable to place several litter boxes in strategic locations: therefore, get plenty of containers. Also buy a shovel to pick up the droppings, an operation that must be carried out quite frequently.
Litter Box Liners
- Sepiolite (cat litter): Avoid scented products and those that clump. Avoid if the ferret gets into the habit of rolling in it, as the dust dries out and dirties its fur. The dust can also cause sneezing.
- Compressed recycled paper: excellent material, very absorbent and does not cause intestinal blockage if swallowed.
- Sawdust or wood shavings: absolutely avoid those made from pine, cedar and conifers in general, which release toxic substances.
- Crushed corn: very good product, absorbent and non-dusty.
Ferret accessories
Ferret Cage Arrangement
Lively and playful, ferrets often tend to knock over their feeders. This is why it is better to choose ceramic bowls, which are heavier and therefore more stable, or feeders that can be fixed to the walls. Water should preferably be distributed using a bottle attached to the bars of the cage. It should be changed every day, without forgetting to clean and disinfect the bottle regularly. You can also install a bathtub: ferrets generally like to play with water. Although it is not really essential, the hammock suspended inside the cage is another accessory particularly appreciated by ferrets, who love to sleep there.
Also, buy a leash and harness if you plan to take your pet outside, as well as a small tag engraved with your address and phone number, in case your ferret gets lost or runs away. A regular collar with a bell will come in handy at home, to prevent you from stepping on your pet and to make it easier to locate.
Be very careful when choosing toys for ferrets. Unfortunately, these animals tend to gnaw on them, tear them into pieces and swallow any fragments, which can be extremely dangerous. Avoid all soft rubber objects, which ferrets are fatally attracted to, causing them to tear them to shreds and ingest the pieces, with serious consequences. Instead, opt for objects made of hard plastic or other chew-resistant materials. Those that contain a bell or that squeak when squeezed are particularly entertaining.
Arranging your home to accommodate your ferret
Ferret-Proofing Your Home
Start by removing or making absolutely inaccessible any object, especially valuable ones, that could be broken or damaged. Then pay attention to anything that can be swallowed, especially soft rubber objects, such as foam cushion padding, erasers, kitchen sponges, stereo headset inserts, rubber bands, shoe laces, children's pacifiers and dummies, etc., or dangerous substances (bottles of detergent, soap, bleach, cigarette packets, medicines).
Also, don't forget to inspect and seal any opening or space where the ferret could get in without being easy to retrieve, taking into account its small size and ability to slip into very tight spaces. Therefore, pay attention to any holes made in the walls to let pipes pass through and to the empty space under household appliances and furniture. Capable of opening drawers and small cupboards, ferrets can also slip under the cushions of sofas or mattresses and end up crushed. Block access to windows, balconies and terraces.
Other hazards include electrical cords, toxic plants, rocking chairs, and heavy objects that could tip over and crush your ferret. Finally, always check where your little friend is before you start the washing machine or dishwasher; and if he's nearby when you open the refrigerator, check before you close it! Ferrets like to dig in flower pots. To prevent damage to your houseplants, place small stones or wire mesh on the soil.
Training your ferret for the litter box
Ferrets can learn to use the litter box quite easily, whether they are in their cage or out in the house, although this behavior is not spontaneous like it is with cats. Training will be much easier if the ferret stays in its cage for the first few days after purchase.
This is in fact a clean animal by nature: it does not relieve itself in its den, and even less in the place occupied by the food and water containers, but reserves a small corner of its cage for this. By placing the nest in one corner, the food and water bowls in two others and a litter box in the last, the ferret will choose this location to relieve itself. The edges of the box must be adapted to the size of the ferret: a subject of a few weeks may have difficulty getting in and out of a box suitable for an adult or a cat. Care must be taken to always keep the box clean, otherwise the ferret will refuse to use it, but by leaving a "trace" of its previous use so that the animal does not use it as a playground, to dig and roll around in it.
When you first let your ferret out into the house, limit his first few outings to a small room, with the litter box in a corner. Each time he goes there, reward him immediately afterward by showering him with praise, petting, and a treat (choose one of the allowed treats!). Ferrets usually go to the bathroom a few minutes after waking up, so you can wait until they have gone to the litter box before taking them out of their cage. Remember, however, that since they eat many small meals a day, they tend to relieve themselves frequently.
Ferret outside
The first time you take your four-legged friend outside, choose a quiet area, without too many people or traffic noise, and observe how he reacts. If he acts very frightened, take him back inside or put him back in his travel cage; try this again and again, gradually, but if he does not get used to it, stop going outside. Most ferrets, especially those accustomed from a young age, will be able to accompany you outside and even on trips without much difficulty.
However, be careful never to leave a ferret alone in the open air for even a minute: it could run away, be attacked by dogs or cats, or be stolen.
Ferret hygiene
Ferret Coat Care
Ferrets do not require any special care for their fur: they are very good at keeping themselves clean (if you have two or more ferrets, you will also see them help each other by licking each other, like cats do). It is then a matter of brushing the animal carefully and often to remove dead hair.
Spayed ferrets do not normally need to be bathed often; bathing does not change their otherwise mild odor much and, if done too frequently, can actually make their skin dry and itchy. A ferret should not be bathed more than once a month, unless it has become dirty through mischief or there are medical reasons that require it.
Nail trimming should be done every two to four weeks, depending on the need: check your pet's nails from time to time so you can intervene before they become too long. The nails on the front paws generally grow faster and need to be trimmed more often than those on the back paws. Do not use small regular nail scissors, but get a cat-specific nail clipper.
Ferret Social Life
The chances of a dog and a ferret becoming friends depend a lot on the dog's personality. A little patience is usually enough for them to get along, although you should always avoid leaving them alone without supervision to avoid any risk. Instinctively, ferrets are not afraid of dogs and may therefore try to play by pulling their ears or nibbling their paws, otherwise they could have a violent reaction. In any case, always make sure to feed the two animals separately. As a matter of principle, avoid leaving the dog and the ferret together without supervision.
Smaller than a dog, a cat represents a minor risk for the ferret, but is nonetheless dangerous due to the scratches it can inflict. Here too, it is advisable to act with caution, letting the two animals gradually get used to each other. The business becomes much simpler with a kitten, but in this case it is also necessary to ensure that the ferret does not hurt it by wanting to play too hard.
It is advisable to keep rabbits away from ferrets, although with a lot of patience, attention and a good-natured ferret, nothing prevents them from becoming friends. However, this is a dangerous friendship: the ferret could be carried away by its hunting instinct, since the rabbit is one of the natural prey that it has been trained for centuries to destroy.
Ferrets and small rodents (hamsters, rats, mice, gerbils, etc.) are absolutely incompatible. Ferrets have evolved to be predators of the latter and the hunting instinct would eventually prevail. Not only should you not try to get a ferret to make friends with your hamster, but you should even prevent them from sniffing each other: the small rodent would start to get agitated and the ferret would frantically try to catch it to play with it.
Reptiles and ferrets do not mix, and it would be foolish to try to make friends with them anyway. If you have a reptile in a terrarium, keep the ferret away. At the sight of a potential predator, the reptile would become nervous, stressed, refuse to eat and remain hidden permanently, which would have serious consequences for its health.
Fish are a great game for ferrets and should be kept out of reach. Not only could the ferret try to catch them, but he could also drown if he managed to get into a covered aquarium.