Rongeur

Octodon

Behavior

Much smaller than the chinchilla, it is very curious and very affectionate. It loves to play in its cage and engages in crazy chases with its peers. The degu is naturally clean, odorless, docile and easy to tame — apart from certain aggressive elements. It lets itself be handled quite easily and bites are rare if you know how not to frighten it. The degu is a diurnal animal (it lives during the day), but its peak activity is at dusk. It does not hibernate and shows the same liveliness from one end of the year to the other. In the wild, it lets out little cries that resemble a bird chirping. The shrill cry is reserved for warning in case of danger, when it lives in a group.

The habitat of the octodon

The preferred habitat of this rodent is below 1,200 meters. Its natural environment consists of arid steppes with stony soil, planted with a few shrubs among rare vegetation. The prevailing climate is hot and dry in summer, cold and humid in winter (Mediterranean type). However, the constitution of the octodon does not allow it to withstand very high temperatures.

The lifestyle of the octodon

The degu is a burrowing animal. It lives in burrows that it digs up to two meters deep. These underground areas are made up of numerous galleries connecting various chambers. Each chamber has a specific function: one serves as a resting place, another as a hiding place, a third serves as a storeroom for provisions, a fourth will shelter the births, etc.
Due to their depth, the galleries maintain a pleasant and relatively stable temperature. The octodon, which has difficulty withstanding large temperature variations, takes refuge there to protect itself from the strong heat of the day or the cold of the night (let us recall in passing that it is not in the habit of hibernating).

Defenses and reflexes of the octodon

The first is the conformation of its hearing apparatus. The octodon has a large tympanic resonance chamber and highly developed ear auricles. This allows it to perceive sound at more than 50 meters.
It can then easily detect the approach of a predator and (in principle) has plenty of time to take cover. The second advantage is very particular, since it consists of autotomizing itself - that is to say, getting rid of its tail - like lizards. The skin of the latter is cut by reflex, giving its owner the possibility of escaping the grip of the aggressor. This self-mutilation does not cause any pain or hemorrhage. The exposed vertebrae become necrotic, then fall off. The remaining stump normally heals on its own. However, the octodon does not limit itself to these two advantages to protect itself from unexpected attacks: it also uses another means of defense, caution.

Buy an octodon

It is important to understand that buying an animal is a commitment: its life is in your hands. Also, if your motivation is not sufficient and you quickly, once the magic of the novelty has worn off, get tired of caring for your companion every day, cleaning its cage and giving it the attention it demands, it is better to abstain. Welcoming an animal into your home must be synonymous with a desire to make it happy, to take care of it responsibly.
With the children?
From the age of 10, a child begins to show an ability to recognize the needs of an animal. We can therefore consider personally entrusting him with the "care" of the little companion. Be careful, however: the specific life of a NAC (new pet), and of an octodon in particular, makes the task even more specific. The experience proves to be very beneficial for the child: it helps him develop his sense of responsibility and to have more self-confidence, in other words, to build his personality. In addition, it is recognized that the fact of a child taking care of an animal encourages his openness to others and his ability to express himself. The octodon is also a fascinating animal for a teenager who is interested in biology. The complexity of its way of life and the liveliness of its reactions make it a very attractive subject of observation.
The benefits of octodon
The octodon, once installed in a suitable cage, requires relatively little maintenance. It does not give off any odor (unlike the hamster, for example). It is very active and shows great liveliness, which is what makes it fascinating to watch.
It is small (fortunately, because it is recommended to raise at least two octodons together; a single subject tends to mope and risks wasting away). It can be accustomed to behaving in a certain way. Communication is not necessarily easy, but if the owner devotes enough time to observing it, he can understand his animal. In addition, this small rodent has a longer lifespan than hamsters or guinea pigs, which is not insignificant when you are very attached to it.
Choosing the right octodon
  • First, examine the eyes: you should not detect any discharge; the eyes should be wide open.
  • The nose should not be dirty; this could be a sign of coryza (what we commonly call a “cold”).
  • The hindquarters should not be soiled or wet; this could suggest that the animal has diarrhea.
  • The belly should be soft when you feel it between your fingers.
  • The skin should be free of hair loss and scabs of any kind.
  • Also check the condition of the legs and claws (don't forget the animal's burrowing nature).
This general examination, besides allowing you to form a perfect opinion of the health of the animal, will show the seller that you are attentive to any abnormal signs. When your octodon is chosen, ask him to let you take him yourself. You will thus be able to test the character of the chosen animal. If he is naturally docile, he should come to your hand and let himself be taken. If this is not the case, choose another subject. The stores must present several animals for sale to allow a choice.

The Octodon Cage

The volume of the cage depends not only on the size of the animal, but also on its lifestyle. The degu is a small rodent, of course, but it likes to jump and climb. Its cage should therefore be high and fitted with a mesh with fairly fine mesh so that it does not escape. Furthermore, being originally a gregarious animal, it does not appreciate solitude; it is therefore advisable to give it at least one companion; plan the dimensions of the cage accordingly from the start! As a guide, a small group of three or four degu can be raised in a large cage measuring 156 × 116 × 100 cm. The bars should be entirely metal, because plastic is not resistant to the degu's teeth!
Cage layout
The octodon is a very active animal that needs a lot of exercise; it is therefore advisable to equip the cage with gnarled branches and trays that will allow it to climb, jump and clamber. Finally, a thick bottom of sand and chalk will meet its need to dig and at the same time wear down its sharp claws. Let us remember in passing that sand is also essential for its grooming and the maintenance of its coat.
Caution: Remember that the degu is a rodent. Any vegetation—plants and tree branches—that you put in its cage are likely to be “tasted.” So, make sure beforehand that they are not toxic to it.
Where to place the cage?
The cage will be placed in a quiet place, not too dry, ventilated, without drafts and protected from direct sunlight (in other words, do not place it near a radiator or behind a window). It must be easy to access, because it will have to be cleaned and the litter changed once a week.

The terrarium, a special cage

All rodents, and especially the octodon, like to dig; a terrarium is therefore a good solution. It also has the advantage of cutting off any draft. However, carefully monitor the temperature inside; it can rise much faster than the temperature in the room.
You will cover the bottom of the terrarium with a mixture of clay soil and sand (8 to 10 cm thick so that your octodon can dig sufficiently), which you will sprinkle with gravel and pebbles. Tree branches that it can climb as it pleases and leafy plants will complete the reconstitution of the natural habitat.
Make your own terrarium
Make sure you choose the right container. An aquarium is not suitable: the walls must be much higher. Large reptile terrariums also often have walls that are too low. It is best to make a custom habitat yourself, made of glass or Plexiglas. Be careful not to use materials that are too fragile for the joints.
The top should be covered with fine wire mesh to prevent any untimely exit (remember that the degu can make great leaps). Take the precaution of fixing the branches well, so that they do not risk falling on the animals even if they dig at their feet (something they will generally be quick to do). The terrarium solution is to be adopted when raising many degus. Its main disadvantage is that it takes up a lot of space; on the other hand, it is much easier to recreate the animals' natural lifestyle, and they are all the better for it!

Living with an octodon

First days
Moving from a pet store to an unfamiliar home is not always easy for an animal. To make this transition easier, you can ask the pet store what times meals were given and the cage was cleaned, and adopt the same routine — at least initially. This attention will allow you to not disrupt some of the animal's habits, which will adapt more easily to your home. In the same vein, in order not to cause intestinal disorders, find out what type of food it is accustomed to and give it the same thing at home in the days following the purchase. To take your new companion home, you can buy a small transport cage (this container will be useful to you very often later on, receiving the small rodent each time you clean its cage).
Acclimatization period at home
When you get back from the pet store, put your octodon in the prepared cage and leave it for two to three days without touching it (giving it something to drink and discreetly filling its feeder all the same), so that it has time to get its bearings. At home, it will hear new noises, to which it will gradually get used, by adjusting its rhythm to the entrances and exits of the people in the house. Once this "acclimatization" period has passed, try to open the cage (choose a time when it is wide awake) and present it with food yourself. Pet it, but do not pick it up with both hands.
How to hold the octodon
  • Before catching an animal in its cage, you must warn it. You must therefore talk to it, pet it, let it sniff your fingers before grabbing it. If the degu does not let you do so, do not insist and repeat the operation the next day.
  • There is no point in trying to corner him in the cage. Of course, with this method you will be able to catch him, but it will be more difficult every day, your pet will have less and less confidence in you and he may well bite you - is this how you treat a friend?
  • You should never grab the degu by the end of its tail. Remember that this triggers a self-mutilation reflex: you will end up with the end of the tail in your fingers, while its owner runs away and hides.
  • Do not let children "test" this phenomenon: unlike that of lizards, the tail of the degu does not grow back. To avoid breaking it, you can grab it by the base.

How to properly care for your octodon

Essential conditions for a healthy and happy octodon
  • Place a large cage in an area with little sunlight.
  • Choose a quiet room.
  • Monitor the stability of ambient temperature and humidity.
  • Provide a layer of sandy soil for him to dig in.
  • Respect the animal's rhythm and its rest periods.
  • Raise several octodons if possible. (If you are hesitant about "proliferation" issues, you can have your animals sterilized by a veterinarian.)
  • Provide supervision in the early stages until groups form.

Octodon Care

Signs of good health
  • The animal is very active, jumping and moving constantly.
  • His coat is shiny.
  • He has a keen eye.
  • He comes when you approach.
  • He eats and drinks well.
  • His teeth are saffron colored.
  • His droppings are dry.

Normal behavior

Marking the territory
This behavior is as strong in captivity as in the wild. Thanks to the secretion of the ventral gland, the octodon marks the places it considers its own. To do this, it rubs its belly on the ground or on objects in its cage - or in its environment if it has the opportunity to go out. The male marks its territory much more than the female, its gland is also larger, but the female who has just given birth carries out more intensive marking in the days following the event. Fear of danger leads to the secretion of the ventral gland in both sexes. Marking is also done in the classic way by urine and feces.
Modes of communication
  • In the event of sudden noise or movement, announcing potential danger, the octodon stands on its hind legs.
  • Two octodons that meet sniff each other completely to find out who they are dealing with (let's not forget that the smell of urine marking further reinforces the identification of belonging to a given group).
  • Depending on the result of the examination, the two animals will either get along or fight. In the latter case, each will stand on the defensive, with its tail raised. The movements of the tail inform about the degree of excitement by the frequency and amplitude of the beats.
  • Mutual grooming is common between adults, males and females. It is preceded by postures to encourage grooming and can last from ten to fifteen minutes. It strengthens bonds within the group.

Playing with your octodon

What to do to make your octodon happy?
Owners often offer games to their rodents, by analogy with cats or dogs. But octodons play very little in nature, except among themselves during their youth. For these animals, play is only a way of getting to know each other.
The main activity of the degu in the wild is to dig a burrow developed into many galleries, to walk around in it and to look for food outside. The best thing is therefore to offer your animal a space of earth (if possible inside its cage) so that it can dig. Twigs and cotton made available to it will allow it to line the galleries.
The dirt space does not duplicate the sandbox; he needs both! Sand baths are a special moment for him. In the range of accessories, wheels do not inspire him much, especially since the conformation of his hind legs is not adapted to this type of game. On the other hand, all the high houses, the boards, the tree branches on which to jump are welcome. Finally, let us remember that degus like to live in groups; it is often in these conditions that they are happiest… if the harmony that reigns in the group is good.

Feeding the octodon

Food rules
The so-called "basic" diet refers to the foods that are given every day. It is supplemented by vitamins, minerals, treats, etc. given more spaced out but regularly. Don't think that your octodon will be happier if you force-feed it, or stronger; by overfeeding it, you will only succeed in poisoning it quickly: it is indeed very sensitive to excess food. An excess of fat will not make it fat - the octodon is relatively unprone to obesity - but it can cause organs, such as the liver, to malfunction. Remember that, in the wild, it consumes per day:
  • 10 ml of water per 100 g of weight,
  • 10 to 12 g of food per 100 g of weight.
For a 200g subject, this corresponds to 20ml of water and 24g of food; a small ramekin half full is enough. Empty the ramekin every day to remove the seed husks and also change the water every day. It is best to feed him, if you can, in the middle of the day. This corresponds to his natural rhythm. Only give him treats once a week and, even if the animal loves them, do not make them the entire meal. Always keep in mind that many premature deaths of degus are due to an unsuitable diet.
You will need to feed the same food as that given by the store where you bought your pet. If you want to change brands (or food), do so gradually, first incorporating a very small amount of the new brand into the daily ration, then gradually increasing its proportion (observe at the same time whether it is well tolerated) until it forms the entire ration.
Food
For everyday meals, choose specific mixtures intended for octodons; they are complete, balanced, economical and adapted to their metabolism.
You can find a ready-made mix of seeds and fruits in stores that will be perfect. More precisely, it includes cereals, vegetables, fruits, seeds and dried fruits. You can supplement it periodically with a supply of greenery. The compact seeds that contain many nutrients are more austere to the eye (yes! they are all the same) but preferable for the health of a capricious animal.
Hay
Hay forms the basis of its diet. Give it as much as you want (a small handful every morning is enough) to avoid intestinal fermentation and constipation, which is often fatal for rodents. By chewing it for a long time, your degu will also be able to wear down its teeth naturally, especially its molars. If possible, buy hay intended for rodents and keep it dry. Inspect it before offering it to your animal: if you see black spots on it, throw it away and check the rest of your supply. These spots indicate the beginnings of mold, probably due to poor storage conditions (humidity and poor ventilation).
Warning: do not have the "good" idea of ​​drying the grass from your lawn to give it to your octodon; it can poison it.
Water
The amount of water that the degu drinks varies depending on the protein content of its food. Of course, the water consumed is not limited to drinking water. If its food is rich in water, the degu will need to drink less, since its needs will already be partly met. In the wild, it finds enough water in the plants that it ingests and therefore drinks little. In captivity, its needs increase due to the much drier food that it receives, which most often consists exclusively of seeds. It is therefore necessary to provide it with water. The simplest thing is to provide it with a bottle, from which it will drink as it wishes.

Harmful foods and extras

Fresh vegetables and fruits that are too watery can cause intestinal disorders. So avoid giving them. Many owners think they are making their degus happy by giving them salad. They are unaware that their digestive flora is very fragile; this sudden change in food causes diarrhea. If this only happens once a week, there will be no consequences. However, salad should be given in very small quantities. Some vegetables that are low in water do not cause this problem: cabbages, carrots, leeks, parsley. As for fruit, the most popular and least dangerous is the apple. But do not give a whole apple... a half-quarter from time to time will suffice.
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